Nice: A curated guide to the Riviera’s Sunlit Classic
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Explore the essence of Nice through a curated selection of old town charm, seaside walks and cultural landmarks.
For me, the city has always been more than a postcard.

Nice is often described through its light, its sea and its legendary Promenade, but for me, the city has always been more than a postcard. It is a place of layers: childhood memories, family addresses, hillside views, old rituals, and the quiet feeling of coming back to somewhere that has always known you. I was born here, in a small apartment facing the Russian Orthodox Cathedral of Saint-Nicolas, where, according to my mother, I had a prince’s bedroom. For decades, my grandmother lived on Avenue Robert Schuman, high up on the hill, and as a child I would come to visit her several times a year during school holidays. Years later, my mother bought an apartment on the other side of that same hill, and from our terrace, I can now see the building where my grandmother once lived. In Nice, places seem to answer one another across time.

Whether you come for a weekend or return again and again, Nice has a way of making its beauty feel personal.

My memories of the city are made of simple, happy moments: walks along the Promenade des Anglais, afternoons in Parc Jean-Moulin, visits to Parc Phoenix, ice creams at Fenocchio, pizza dinners at Cresci, days spent between La Petite Ferme, Aquasplash and Antibes, and the green slopes of the Colline du Château. These are not grand memories, but they are exactly what makes Nice so special to me. Beyond the sea, the colours and the Mediterranean beauty, it is a city that feels intimate, generous and deeply alive.

And perhaps that is the best way to discover Nice: not as a checklist, but as a city to move through slowly, from the sea to the Old Town, from a market morning to a hilltop view, from a famous promenade to a quiet street that suddenly feels like yours. Whether you come for a weekend or return again and again, Nice has a way of making its beauty feel personal. It is a city to walk, taste, watch, remember, and above all, feel.

“O my beautiful Nice, queen of flowers, I will always sing of your old rooftops. I will sing of the mountains, of your richly adorned landscape, your green countryside, and your great golden sun.”
Menica Rondelly, Nissa la Bella (1903), translated

Old Town

Vieux Nice

Best for ? A first taste of Nice’s old-town charm
What vibe ? Colourful, lively, Mediterranean

Vieux Nice is the city at its most atmospheric: a maze of narrow streets, warm yellow façades, green shutters, small squares and Mediterranean colours that feel almost Italian. This influence is rooted in Nice’s history, as the city belonged to the Kingdom of Sardinia before becoming French in 1860, which still shows in its architecture, baroque churches and piazza-like rhythm. Around Place Rossetti and the Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate, the old town feels lively, colourful and wonderfully local, while the Cours Saleya brings its own charm with market stalls, flowers and cafés. And of course, no visit would be complete without stopping at Fenocchio, my favourite ice cream shop in the city, and arguably the best in Nice. More than just a picturesque old town, Vieux Nice is where the city feels slightly chaotic and impossible not to love.

Vieux Nice
Vieux Nice

Cours Saleya

Best for? Market mornings and southern charm
What vibe ? Local, animated, effortlessly Niçois

Cours Saleya is one of the most vibrant places in Nice, where the charm of the South comes alive through colours, scents and everyday rituals. In the morning, its famous market fills Vieux Nice with flowers, seasonal produce and local delicacies, usually from Tuesday to Sunday, while Monday brings a different atmosphere with its antiques market. In summer, the square comes alive again after sunset with an evening arts and crafts market. Once a centre of Niçois social life, where Carnival floats even paraded in the 19th century, Cours Saleya remains today one of the best places to feel the rhythm of Nice: sunny, generous, local and unmistakably Mediterranean.

Cours Saleya
Cours Saleya

Place Masséna

Best for? Feeling the pulse of central Nice
What vibe ? Iconic, bright, theatrical

Place Masséna is the grand meeting point of Nice, the kind of square you inevitably cross several times without ever seeing it the same way twice. Framed by red façades, arcades and a striking black-and-white pavement, it connects the Old Town, Avenue Jean Médecin, the Promenade du Paillon and the seafront in one of the city’s most recognisable settings. Created in the 19th century and named after André Masséna, a Marshal of the Empire born in Nice, the square has long been one of the city’s main gathering places. At its centre, the Fontaine du Soleil and its statue of Apollo bring a theatrical Mediterranean touch, while the seven illuminated figures of Jaume Plensa, representing the seven continents, give the square a more contemporary identity after dark.

Place Masséna
Place Masséna

Place Garibaldi

Best for? A charming pause between Vieux Nice and the Port
What vibe ? Painterly, relaxed, old-world

Place Garibaldi feels like one of Nice’s most theatrical squares, with its ochre façades, long arcades and painted trompe-l’œil details that make the whole setting feel almost like a living stage. Built in the late 18th century, it is considered the oldest major square in Nice. At its centre stands the statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi, the Italian general and political figure who was born in Nice in 1807, a reminder of the city’s deep ties with Italy. I especially love the small red and gold carousel, which adds something nostalgic and joyful to the square, as if the place were made not only for history, but for everyday life.

Place Garibaldi
Place Garibaldi

Seaside

Promenade des Anglais

Best for ? Seaside walks and iconic Riviera views
What vibe ? Grand, breezy, timeless

The Promenade des Anglais is Nice at its most iconic: a sweeping seaside avenue lined with palm trees, blue chairs and endless views over the Baie des Anges. Its name dates back to the 19th century, when British winter visitors helped fund a coastal walkway, which gradually became the city’s legendary “Promenade des Anglais”. Today, it stretches for almost seven kilometres along the seafront, between the turquoise Mediterranean and Nice’s famous pebble beaches. For many visitors, it is one of the first images that comes to mind when thinking of the French Riviera; for me, it is also deeply personal. When I was a baby, my father used to take me there in my stroller at 5 a.m., so my mother could sleep a little longer. I like to imagine the Promenade at that hour: quiet, pale, almost empty, with the sea waking up beside us.

Promenade des Anglais

Parc de la Colline du Château

Best for? Sunset views over Nice and the Baie des Anges
What vibe ? Romantic, lush, cinematic

Parc de la Colline du Château is one of the most magical places in Nice, not only for its spectacular views, but for the feeling of intimacy it keeps. Set between Vieux Nice and Port Lympia, this leafy hilltop park offers some of the most beautiful panoramas in the city, especially over the Promenade des Anglais, the Baie des Anges and the ochre rooftops of the Old Town. You can reach it by climbing the stairs from the seafront, or take the elevator. At the top, the park feels almost like a secret garden suspended above Nice, with hundreds of little walkways winding between trees, ruins, playgrounds and the famous waterfall. Sunset is the best time to come: the Promenade turns golden, the roofs of Vieux Nice catch the last light, and Nice suddenly feels both grand and deeply personal.

Parc de la Colline du Château
View from the Park

Port Lympia

Best for? Discovering Nice’s softer harbour side
What vibe ? Maritime, mellow, unhurried

Port Lympia shows a different side of Nice, quieter and more maritime, where the city seems to slow down around the movement of boats. Built from the mid-18th century on the former Lympia marshland, the port takes its name from a spring that once fed a small lake in the area. Today, it is one of the most atmospheric corners of the city, with traditional pointus, elegant yachts, ferries, café terraces and reflections shifting across the water throughout the day. Between the Old Town, the Castle Hill and Mont Boron, Port Lympia feels both central and slightly apart. It is a place to wander without a plan, watch the boats come and go, stop for a drink, and enjoy a softer, saltier rhythm of the city.

Port Lympia

Culture

Arènes de Cimiez

Best for? Roman ruins, Matisse and olive-tree walks
What vibe ? Cultured, timeless, contemplative

The Arènes de Cimiez take you to one of Nice’s most cultured hilltop corners, where the city feels less seaside and more timeless. Set among olive trees and gardens, this historic area is built around the remains of Cemenelum, the ancient Roman city that once stood here, with its amphitheatre, thermal baths and archaeological museum nearby. Just beside it, the Musée Matisse, housed in the Villa des Arènes, adds another layer to the place, turning Cimiez into a rare meeting point between Roman history, Belle Époque elegance and modern art. Far from the postcard image of Nice, this is a more intellectual and contemplative escape, perfect for wandering under the olive trees, visiting the museum and seeing how deeply layered the city really is beyond the sea.

Arènes de Cimiez
Arènes de Cimiez

Musée Matisse

Best for? A gentle art break in Cimiez
What vibe ? Bright, delicate, meditative

The Musée Matisse is one of the most beautiful cultural stops in Nice. Housed in the Villa des Arènes, it traces the evolution of Henri Matisse’s work, from his early paintings to his later experiments with colour, line and cut-outs. What makes the visit especially meaningful is its connection to Nice: Matisse lived and worked in the city for much of his life, drawn to its light, its colours and its sense of space. Set beside the Roman Arènes de Cimiez, the olive grove and the archaeological site, the museum feels like part of a wider cultural landscape rather than a standalone institution. It is a quiet, thoughtful place to understand Nice beyond the sea, through art, history and the luminous world that inspired one of the great modern masters.

Musée Matisse
Musée Matisse

Cathedral of Saint-Nicolas

Best for ? A hidden architectural gem away from the crowds
What vibe ? Historic, intimate, otherworldly

The Russian Orthodox Cathedral Saint-Nicolas is one of the most surprising landmarks in Nice, and for me, one of the most personal: when I was a baby, we lived just opposite it, facing its colourful domes from our small apartment. Its location, in a quiet residential area away from the seafront, comes from its history: the cathedral was built on the former Villa Bermond estate, where Tsarevich Nicholas Alexandrovich, son of Tsar Alexander II, died in 1865 while staying in Nice. A memorial chapel was first created in his honour, before the current cathedral was built between 1903 and 1912, as the Russian aristocratic community in Nice had grown significantly during the city’s golden age as a winter resort. With its neo-Russian architecture, ornate domes and richly decorated interior, the cathedral feels almost unreal under the Mediterranean light, a hidden reminder of Nice’s cosmopolitan and imperial past.

Cathédrale Saint-Nicolas

Musée Masséna

Best for? Belle Époque interiors and Riviera history
What vibe ? Polished, ceremonial, aristocratic

Musée Masséna is one of the best places to understand Nice’s golden age as a Riviera capital. Set inside a beautiful Belle Époque villa on the Promenade des Anglais, the museum traces the history of Nice and the Côte d’Azur from the 18th century to the early 20th century, when the city became a glamorous winter resort for aristocrats, artists and travellers. Its salons, period décor, historical collections and listed garden make the visit feel more like stepping into an old Riviera residence than a traditional museum. Built at the end of the 19th century for Victor Masséna, grandson of the Niçois marshal André Masséna, the villa also reflects the city’s close ties with Napoleonic history. Elegant, intimate and deeply rooted in local memory, Musée Masséna is a perfect stop to see Nice beyond the beach.

Musée Masséna
Musée Masséna

Musée des Beaux-Arts

Best for? Discovering Nice’s underrated art collection
What vibe ? Curated, hushed, beautifully offbeat

The Musée des Beaux-Arts is one of Nice’s most underrated cultural stops, set inside an elegant former private villa in the Baumettes neighbourhood, slightly away from the city’s main tourist flow. The museum traces several centuries of art, with works ranging from old masters to 19th and early 20th-century artists, including paintings, sculptures, ceramics and an important collection linked to Jules Chéret, the Belle Époque poster artist who spent his final years in Nice. Less famous than the Musée Matisse or Musée Masséna, it feels more intimate and slightly hidden, a beautiful stop for those who want to explore Nice through art and a quieter kind of cultural discovery.

Musée des Beaux-Arts
Musée des Beaux-Arts
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