Cassis
18·Jul·25
Salt, wine and good tables
Cassis
Salt, wine and good tables
18·Jul·25
CASSIS HAS MORE APPETITE THAN IT LETS ON.
Cassis could easily coast on looks alone, a pastel harbour, dramatic cliffs and boats heading off to the Calanques, more than enough to fill every table with a view. Instead, the food scene runs deeper than it needs to: sure, the waterfront still delivers, but the best meals often happen off-script, down a narrow street, behind a plain doorway, on a terrace that isn't leaning on the view to do the work. Keep it easy and local, go polished, or book the special-occasion table when the setting calls for drama, Cassis plays it every way. Compact village, real appetite.
"Mirèio hasted to prepare, with her own hands and in the open air, their evening meal. There was a broad flat stone served for a table, and she set thereon one mighty dish, where each man plunged his ladle... Seasoned a dish of beans with olive oil, and came and sat before them with a smile."
Frédéric Mistral, Mirèio (1859), translated

VILLAGE TABLES

[ 01 ]
Le Poisson Rouge

Le Poisson Rouge hides at the end of a cul-de-sac in the centre of Cassis, with nothing to suggest what's inside, and everything to gain from stepping in anyway. The kitchen updates a classic repertoire with a light Mediterranean hand: scallop crudo with chilli and yuzu, mussels in harissa and grilled almond, swordfish with sweet potato and turmeric. Discreet enough to miss, good enough that the regulars never let it stay a secret for long.

LE POISSON ROUGE

Le Poisson Rouge hides at the end of a cul-de-sac in the centre of Cassis, with nothing to suggest what's inside, and everything to gain from stepping in anyway. The kitchen updates a classic repertoire with a light Mediterranean hand: scallop crudo with chilli and yuzu, mussels in harissa and grilled almond, swordfish with sweet potato and turmeric. Discreet enough to miss, good enough that the regulars never let it stay a secret for long.

Restaurant Calendal

Restaurant Calendal borrows its name from Mistral's own Cassis hero, a fisherman celebrated in verse and immortalised in a statue down on the promenade. The kitchen keeps to an à-l'ardoise spirit above the port on Rue Brémond: calamari in persillade, mussels gratinée, fish soup, a tian reworked like a bouillabaisse, depending on the season. Close to the harbour but a step back from its busiest terraces, this is honest southern cooking that doesn't need the view to work.

Café Sardine

The name gives it away before the menu does: Café Sardine prices its fish by the 100 grams, like a market stall, chapon, denti or red mullet, landed that morning by Cassis fishermen. Evenings only on Rue Pasteur, market cooking and producer wines, with nothing performed for the terrace crowd. A little raw, a little cool, and entirely uninterested in pretending to be somewhere else.

CAFÉ SARDINE

The name gives it away before the menu does: Café Sardine prices its fish by the 100 grams, like a market stall, chapon, denti or red mullet, landed that morning by Cassis fishermen. Evenings only on Rue Pasteur, market cooking and producer wines, with nothing performed for the terrace crowd. A little raw, a little cool, and entirely uninterested in pretending to be somewhere else.

Cassis Et Romarin

Cassis et Romarin is where Cassis softens a little: a small, warm room on Rue Adolphe Thiers, where homemade dishes, desserts and teas take over from grilled fish and terrace classics. Ask, and the kitchen will happily put together something vegan, fried tofu, rice, a lentil dahl, no fuss made about it. A quiet, nourishing counterpoint to the seafood-heavy side of town.

La Bonne Mère

The name is a wink to Marseille itself: La Bonne Mère is what locals call Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde, the basilica overlooking the city, and it's exactly where founders Jérémy Piazza and Mahéva Angelmann ran their first pizzeria. A decade on, they've brought the same dough to Cassis, into what used to be an Italian trattoria on Rue Michel Arnaud. Anchovy, mozzarella, or specialties like the Marius au pistou, this is Marseille's pizza pedigree landing in a village-sized room.

LA BONNE MÈRE

The name is a wink to Marseille itself: La Bonne Mère is what locals call Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde, the basilica overlooking the city, and it's exactly where founders Jérémy Piazza and Mahéva Angelmann ran their first pizzeria. A decade on, they've brought the same dough to Cassis, into what used to be an Italian trattoria on Rue Michel Arnaud. Anchovy, mozzarella, or specialties like the Marius au pistou, this is Marseille's pizza pedigree landing in a village-sized room.

SPECIAL TABLES

[ 02 ]
Chez Alfred

Chez Alfred is the Cassis table to book when the evening should feel intentional, and the pedigree explains why: Michel Portos, a Marseille native with two Michelin stars from Le Saint-James in Bordeaux, says his first food memory is his mother's bouillabaisse. That precision shows on the plate, catch of the day with soy-lemon jus, onglet de bœuf charolais with roasted shallots, a panna cotta with lemon and vanilla chantilly to close. Restraint, balance, and a plate that knows what it's doing.

CHEZ ALFRED

Chez Alfred is the Cassis table to book when the evening should feel intentional, and the pedigree explains why: Michel Portos, a Marseille native with two Michelin stars from Le Saint-James in Bordeaux, says his first food memory is his mother's bouillabaisse. That precision shows on the plate, catch of the day with soy-lemon jus, onglet de bœuf charolais with roasted shallots, a panna cotta with lemon and vanilla chantilly to close. Restraint, balance, and a plate that knows what it's doing.

Ô Rev

Chef Carlos Nuñez runs Ô Rev on a simple refusal: no classic Provençal here, closer to fusion instead. Inside a listed house on Rue Lamartine, the plates go looking for contrast, sea bream tartare with Japanese jus, wakame and combawa, catch of the day with chimichurri and creamy polenta, a smoked beef tagliata with potato millefeuille. Book it for the night you want Cassis to feel like it packed a passport.

LA VILLA MADIE

Recommending La Villa Madie is almost too easy, but let's not pretend: three Michelin stars since 2022, a terrace above the Mediterranean, Cap Canaille filling the whole view. Chef Dimitri Droisneau trained under Bernard Pacaud at L'Ambroisie before falling hopelessly for Provence and never leaving, and he sums up his own cooking simply: "I'm just trying to put that beauty on the plate." This is the grand gesture, the birthday, the anniversary, the reservation that turns a seaside trip into a memory.

LA VILLA MADIE

Recommending La Villa Madie is almost too easy, but let's not pretend: three Michelin stars since 2022, a terrace above the Mediterranean, Cap Canaille filling the whole view. Chef Dimitri Droisneau trained under Bernard Pacaud at L'Ambroisie before falling hopelessly for Provence and never leaving, and he sums up his own cooking simply: "I'm just trying to put that beauty on the plate." This is the grand gesture, the birthday, the anniversary, the reservation that turns a seaside trip into a memory.

LA PRESQU’ÎLE

Since 1978, La Presqu'île has held its spot at the end of the Port-Miou peninsula, Cap Canaille in the distance and a private beach below for a swim between courses. Chef Ringo Schulz calls his own style "surprising, delicately," and that shows in a contemporary Mediterranean menu built on regional produce and seafood, elegant without full gastronomic ceremony. This is the special table, not the everyday one, the one to book when Cassis should feel beautifully suspended.

CASUAL STOPS

[ 03 ]
Le Petit Oyster Bar

Le Petit Oyster Bar keeps things refreshingly simple: oysters, shellfish, a charcuterie and cheese board, a small terrace on Rue Brémond about 30 metres from the port. It works as a salty little pause rather than a full sit-down Cassis moment, a plate to share, a glass of white, something fresh before dinner or after a walk through the village.

LE PETIT OYSTER BAR

Le Petit Oyster Bar keeps things refreshingly simple: oysters, shellfish, a charcuterie and cheese board, a small terrace on Rue Brémond about 30 metres from the port. It works as a salty little pause rather than a full sit-down Cassis moment, a plate to share, a glass of white, something fresh before dinner or after a walk through the village.

Casalini

Founded in Tuscany in 1962 by Giorgio Casalini, Casalini has stayed a family affair ever since, brothers Antonio and Luca still making gelato and sorbet the way their father did, organic Ardèche cream and farm milk included. The Cassis outpost landed on Quai des Baux in 2018 and slotted right into village life: a cone, the boats in front of you, and the genuinely serious task of picking a flavour before the sun wins.

BEURK

Finally, a restaurant name that sounds like a child reviewed the menu before even sitting down. Beurk is not your usual Cassis table, and that's exactly the fun of it: a playful food concept built entirely around kids, with cooking and pastry classes taught by real chefs in small groups, under the mischievous house rule that here, the children order, not the parents. In a town full of grown-up village dinners, Beurk adds something lighter and genuinely adorable.

BEURK

Finally, a restaurant name that sounds like a child reviewed the menu before even sitting down. Beurk is not your usual Cassis table, and that's exactly the fun of it: a playful food concept built entirely around kids, with cooking and pastry classes taught by real chefs in small groups, under the mischievous house rule that here, the children order, not the parents. In a town full of grown-up village dinners, Beurk adds something lighter and genuinely adorable.

Relax, you're in
France

Keep wandering

[ 04 ]
Cassis
What to see between the cliffs and the sea
Cassis
A room above the Callanques
Nice
Discover the Riviera’s sunlit classic
Boarding Babes
For those who travel for the vibe.
Not the checklist.
NOT YOUR AVERAGE TRAVEL DUO.

WHO ARE WE ?

[ 03 ]